The Sprint Togs pattern includes options for a v-neck or round neck, low or high leg line and an optional back cut-out. The neckline can be finished with binding or top stitching.
Whether using your suit for swimming, dancing, or gym, it is guaranteed to impress!
VARIATIONS INCLUDED
Round or v-neck
Binding or top stitched neck
Regular or high leg
Optional back cut-out
Tutorial for mixed sizing
REQUIREMENTS
SIZING
FORMAT
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file
Be inspired by our enchanting new collection.
Included are 4 stunning new pastel prints, a gorgeous enchanted forest design and 3 new BOO! Inks that Holly and I worked on together!Abstract paint is a stunning wearable art collection we have printed on spandex and stretch net.
In spandex, we have a gorgeous double border print.
In stretch net we have the double border (perfect for knee length skirts) or a full scale print (perfect girls maxi dresses, ladies garments or seamless dress designs).
The options available offer great versatility for creating your dream outfit!
The Shark Bite pattern includes a suit perfect for swim, gym, dance or fashion. The optional asymmetrical ‘shark bite’ adds a fun, playful element. The tutorial includes options for finishing the arm and neck openings with elastic, binding or enclosed elastic.
VARIATIONS INCLUDED
Regular suit
Regular suit with binding
Shark bite suit
Shark bite suit with binding
Sizes 2-14
Accommodates developing figure for girls aged 10-14
Includes extended waist sizing to 80cm
FORMAT
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
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Included are circle panels in both regular and tween sizing, small and large deer panels and 3 gorgeous co-ordinates.
Holly photographed her ink artwork then put it in Illustrator to create a repeat pattern. We found that photographing it worked better than scanning as it captured reflection in the metallic bits. After that I helped her play with the scale to get an idea of how it would look on a garment. We used an illustration of the size 7 embrace togs to make sure it would work well for smallish patterns as well as bigger ones!
Holly knew that 1 colourway was simply not enough so she recoloured her artwork to add her dream colours!
Then she had the l-o-n-g (not that long) wait to see her samples!
The day her fabric samples arrived. 🥳 She loved them and said everything was just perfect and she wouldn't change a thing! Always nice when they are right first go!
GREEN
Holly had a very specific list of demands for what she wanted made with each of her fabrics. First up on her list was a portrait dress in green! She took one look in the mirror and said "WOAH, I have never worn anything in these colours before, I am like a bright shiny star!"
This pattern includes a lined crop perfect for activewear, dance, gym or swim. It is a great scrap buster project. It can be made with 6mm or 10mm straps.
Sizes 2-14
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
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The bralette pattern is incredibly versatile. Use it to sew a bralette for developing tweens, a little 'bra' for a toddler wanting to be like Mum, or an activewear or swimwear crop! Not only that, with a little basic mashing with our other patterns, you can create a dress bodice or tank top with it too!
Our bralette kits include all the bits and pieces you need to sew up your very first bralette!
You can check out all the available bralette kits here.
This pattern combines your favourite swimwear combinations from 3 of our existing patterns.
Included are a relaxed fit rashie (Swimmers Raglan Rashie), swim length leggings (Leggings), fitted rashie with optional side ties and modest girls swim briefs (Tweenie Bikini).
You don't have to use a panel for this pattern but it includes information on how to best cut your panel!
'Tweenie Bikini' rashie with optional side ties and banded or binding neck
'Tweenie Bikini' swim briefs
'Swimmers' raglan rashie with option of narrow or wide neckband
'Leggings' swim length leggings
Sizes 2-10
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
This pattern has been designed specifically for using with BOO! Circle Panels.
It includes the 2 most popular bodice options for creating circle panel dresses, the classic bodice (sleeveless) from the Spandex Skater Dress pattern and the mini sleeve from the Sleeved Skater Dress pattern. It also includes the waist cut guide.
There are hints and tips included for cutting your circle panel to take away some of the fear in making that first cut!
Spandex Skater Dress - Sleeveless bodice (classic front/back)
Sleeved Skater Dress - Mini sleeve bodice
Waist cut guide
(No skirt pattern pieces are included but bodices can be used with free Donut Skirt or Mermaid skirt patterns)
Includes extended waist sizing to 80cm
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
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The Puff Sleeve Dress is a relaxed fit two-piece dress or top with lots of sleeve options. Included are 2 dress styles, 2 top styles and 6 sleeve variations.
2 dress styles; gathered circle skirt or tiered skirt
2 top options; gathered circle skirt or banded waist
6 sleeve variations; gathered puff sleeve (short, 3/4, long), simple sleeve (short, long), flutter
Sizes 2-14
Includes extended waist sizing to 80cm
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
The Trackie Dacks are relaxed fit pants perfect for lounging around in the cooler months.
Included are long length regular, long length wide leg and shorts with 3 pocket options and 3 waist finishing styles.
3 styles; long regular, short wide leg and shorts
3 pocket options; patch pocket on back, in seam (hidden) pockets, slash pockets, or no pockets
3 waist finishing styles; covered waistband, stitched, draw string
Sizes 2-14, with extended waist sizing up to 80cm
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
The Drop Shoulder Hoodie is a relaxed fit sweater/jumper. It is perfect for the cooler months.
Included are 2 lengths, 3 neckline finishes, 4 sleeve finishes, 3 pocket styles and the option of hemmed or banded waist.
Necklines: Band, Hood, Lined Hood
Lengths: Crop, Jumper
Sleeves: Hemmed, Short Cuff, Long Cuff, Thumb Cuff
Pockets: Kangaroo, In Seam, European
Sizes 2-14
Accommodates developing figure for girls aged 10-14
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces (for at home printing) with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
PROJECTOR format pattern pieces
The Graduation Dress pattern includes a lined bodice with or without flounces and side ties. The arms can be fully enclosed or finished with binding. Skirt variations include a circle based party skirt with or without a flounce, and a simple fabric conservative underskirt which can be optionally layered with gorgeous stretch net for ultimate wow factor.
It is the perfect special occasion dress which can be dressed up or down and was designed for my daughter’s primary school graduation.
3 lined bodice options; basic, seamed or flounce
Option to finish bodice with enclosed arm or binding
4 skirt variations; party skirt, flounce party skirt, under skirt, net skirt
Sizes 2-14
Includes bust adjustment for developing figure for girls aged 11-14
Includes extended waist sizing
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
The Brava Dress pattern includes a dress with 4 hem variations, skirt with 4 hem variations and a crop with 3 hem finishing options. The bodice and skirts are interchangeable with other pattern pieces from our Skater Dress Family!
Create your own fun combos for swim, dance, gym or fashion!
Dress with 4 hem variations
Crop with 3 hem finishes
Skirt with 4 hem variations
Skirt waistband with optional eyelets/buttonholes and waist tie
Sizes 2-14
Accommodates developing figure for girls aged 10-14
Fully illustrated tutorial
A4/Letter size tiled pattern pieces for at home printing with layers option
A0 size large format pattern pieces for print shop printing with layers option
Projector file with layers option
See size 8 example below:
For each piece of Mobilon tape, mark 0.5" (START) from one end and 2.5" (END) from the other. Divide into eighths between these points.
Divide and mark both the top and bottom of your tiers into eighths. Using the erasable marker pen means it won't disappear before you get to put it all together. The more matching points you have, the easier it will be, so don't be afraid to divide it into even smaller sections. I find it really helpful on the very long 3rd tier or adult tiers. Just remember to divide both the tiers and the elastic by the same amount so your points will match. You'll soon realise if you haven't done that; no one wants to unpick!
Using a long zig-zag stitch, with mobilon on top of wrong side of fabric, take the START marker of the tape and match with your first marker point on your fabric. I like to start on the back of the tiers and avoid the side seams. We will be overlapping at the end. Sew a couple of stitches to get your Mobilon anchored in place with the tape and fabric clipped at the next marker point.
With your right hand, stretch your tape between the next point. With your left hand, create tension by holding and guiding the fabric from behind. As you approach your clip, remove and add it to the next marker point. You only need one marker point clipped at a time. Sew slowly to remain accurate.
When you get back to the last marker at the start, trim the extra 0.5" from your Mobilon START and overlap the last point. Sew slightly past the overlap to make sure everything is gathered and trim excess from END.
Just like magic your tier width should now match the tier above and we barely did anything! With right sides together, use the marker points on the now gathered tier to match to the bottom of the tier above it. You may find an extra pin or two between each point or glue is helpful. Use a stretch stitch or overlocker to attach the tiers. Using an overlocker will completely encase your Mobilon tape in the seam - your secrets will disappear!
You should have lovely even gathers. Repeat steps for each tier, working from bottom to top. Once you have your tiers complete, you can attach to your chosen bodice in the same way, right sides together.
That's it, you are done! Once you have this technique in your pocket, gathering is no longer a chore. You'll be excited to add gathered tiers to all your dresses.
If you're wondering if mobilon works with BOO! velvet, it absolutely does. With a thicker fabric base like velvet, those gathers really do make a statement.
Hopefully this has given you some confidence to give it a go. Using mobilon tape has completely changed my perspective on gathering and I'm sure it will soon become your game changer too!
Tara from Little Pretties Handmade has been making gorgeous spandex-covered dog collars for her dog and has detailed how to make both cat and dog versions so you can match with your bestie!
OR
There are so many gorgeous colours, sizes and styles available on Etsy, eBay or you can google 'DIY dog collar kit'.
Webbing length measurements recommendations:
If you have purchased a ready made collar, carefully unpick it so you have all the pieces separate. Measure the length and width of the strapping now to get your fabric piece:
Strap length x double strap width plus seam allowance. For 0.75 inch strapping I did 1.75 width by 17 inches which included my seam allowance.
I found the tube method to have a neater finish rather than wrapping it around the strapping due to the stretchy fabric.
As you pull the fabric over you can pull it so that there is an overhang of about half an inch and leave it there.
Thread the tri-glide clip onto the collar from the right. Fold it over so the bottom on the collar is facing inwards before you stitch the end down. Fold the excess fabric under this is so the ends are not too bulky when stitching down.
Thread through the belt looper and the male side of the side clip on the right side of the collar and now thread back through the tri-glide slide. Top stitch the male side of the collar in place.
And...you're done! The perfect use for your BOO! scraps!
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For a super cute, on trend addition to BOO! Swimmers, I LOVE to add leg flutters. They can be added to any of the BOO! swimmers or leotard patterns.
Firstly, print the ruffle pattern piece from the Portrait Dress pattern.
You can cut your ruffle pattern piece in the same size as the swimmers you are making, but I prefer a narrower flutter; so you need to make some modifications to the portrait ruffle pattern piece.
Draw a line from the size 2 ruffle (refer to image below) and extend it to the size you are making (in this case I am making a size 6) to creative a new curved piece.
Cut out the pattern piece along the newly drawn line and along the dotted line for not hemming.
Using the new ruffle pattern piece, cut 2 leg flutters on the fold in the spandex of your choice. On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the quarters with an erasable fabric marker.
Take your main swimmer body piece and mark the elastic placement at the crotch. Measure 2 inches (5cm) up from this front elastic placement mark and draw a mark. Repeat for both front leg holes. This mark will be where the front tip of the flutter will be placed.
Now take the main back swimmer body piece and measure 2 inches (5cm) up from where the crotch seam will be (arrow in image below) and draw a mark. Repeat for both back leg holes. This mark will be where the back tip of the flutter will be placed.
Now gather the straight edge of the leg flutters using your preferred gathering method. I prefer to use the zig zag gathering method on spandex because it is a stretch stitch.
Sew the crotch of the front and back swimmer pieces as per the pattern. Using the marks made earlier, I like to mark the quarter points in between for precise gathering.
Match the marks you made on the leg gatherings to the marks on the leg openings. The gathered leg flutter should be positioned over the side seam and gathered to fit. I like to pin or clip in place and top stitch with a stretch stitch. Finish the leg opening with elastic and top stitch as per the pattern instructions.
Admire the adorable leg flutters you have just created!
Happy Sewing
xx Katy
Images:
Frilly Lilly . Jolly Ollie
My China Doll
Pattern: Bianca Pullover
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Velvet Oshibana Green
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Pattern: Cocoon Cardigan
Designer: Patterns for Pirates
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll; Steph Hourani
BOO! Fabric: Velvet Oshibana Green; Velvet Kyoto Patchwork (On Demand range)
Pattern: Arica Women
Designer: Little Lizard King
Sewist: Annie from With Love from Annie F
BOO! Fabric: Velvet Printed Cable Knit Oatmeal (On Demand range), Spandex Eco Platinum Moss
Pattern: Unwind Sweater-Jumper-Hoodie
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
Fabric: Velvet Printed Knit Check Oatmeal; Spandex Leopard Allover Natural (On Demand Range)
Pattern: True Romance Bishop Sleeve Top
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Justine Smallwood
Fabric: Velvet Feathers Royal (discontinued)
Pattern: Open Back Pullover
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
Fabric: (Leggings/crop) Spandex Eco Platinum Moss, Spandex Textured Leopard Pink (On Demand Range)
Pattern: Zenith Hoodie
Designer: New Horizons
Sewist: Marnie from Horris and Deedle
Fabric: (Leggings) Spandex Valencia (On Demand Range)
Pattern: Hug Hoodie (for Adults)
Designer: Madeit Patterns
Sewist: Courtney from Zen Street
Fabric: Velvet May Floral (discontinued)
Other patterns you might like to try:
Pattern: Sloane Sweater
Designer: Love Notions
Pattern: Sausalito
Designer: Little Lizard King
Pattern: Women's Hudson Hoodie
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Pattern: Women's Stella Sweater Top & Tunic
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Pattern: Women's Logan Colorblock Hooded Crop and Sweatshirt
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Pattern: Women's Jordan Top & Dress Pattern
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Pattern: Women's Rory Raglan
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Pattern: Valerie Dress
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Pattern: 3675- Charlie Bomber Jacket
Designer: Jalie Patterns
Looking for supplies? Our stretch velvet works beautifully with outerwear patterns! We have a gorgeous range of BOO! hoodie cords and eyelets available here.
Many of our pattern club members love their BOO! spandex dresses, and have become complete pro’s at mashing patterns together to create their own unique dress with a perfect fit. Getting a little creative with pattern placement/cutting can result in less fabric use and getting more out of your spandex stash. We are just warning you though – once you go spandex, you’ll never go back!
Don’t forget to share your creations with us in Pattern Club!
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Wildflower Navy, Warrior Feathers Multi, Cobra White
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Sam Gibson
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Painted Rose, Leopard Allover Natural
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Marnie from Horris & Deedle
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Garden Romance Teal
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Sam Gibson
BOO! Fabric: Villain, Bridal Bouquet Blue
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Sam Gibson
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Wildflower Navy
Designer: Pattern Emporium/BOO! Designs
Sewist: Marnie from Horris & Deedle
BOO! Fabric: Snake Black
Designer: Pattern Emporium
Sewist: Sam Gibson
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Hummingbird Abstract
Designer: Made for Mermaids
Sewist: Annie from Love from Annie F
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Spots Navy, Native Geo
Designer: Patterns for Pirates
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Spandex Solids Black, Power Mesh Black
Designer: One Puddle Lane
Sewist: Tamara Fruin
Here are 2 methods you can use.
SEWN METHOD
Cut a 1" (2.5cm) wide strip of fabric.
Fold it in half length ways and stitch with a 1/4" (0.7cm seam).
Use a loop turner, safety pin or your favourite turning tool to turn it.
NO SEW METHOD
Cut a 1" (2.5cm) wide strip of fabric
Stretch it out... like R-E-A-L-L-Y stretch it (a bunch of times)!
(this is a good one to get the kids involved with)
The edges will turn in beautifully to create a lovely tube shape.
If you have your heart set on using elastic, leave your great quality woven elastic sitting safely in your stash and search for 3mm or 6mm braided, flat, knitted, round or hat elastic which are a softer, stretchier and more comfortable to wear around your ears.
If you are a business making masks, you are welcome to drop your link on the BOO! facebook page here and people have also been sharing what patterns they are using there too.
Stay safe. x
The three main machines used for those of us who love to sew are the overlocker, the coverstitch, and a regular sewing machine. Each of these machines may be capable of some fancy stitches that allow you to add a little something extra to your items depending on which model you have and what it’s capable of. If you are wanting to attempt some more decorative sewing, your best friend in all of this is your MACHINE MANUAL as each machine is different and may require different settings to do the stitch.
FLATLOCK
The first stitch I want to discuss is the flatlock stitch. This is a really cool decorative stitch that is best used on seams that will not be under huge amounts of pressure when worn, such as the shoulder seam that attaches a raglan sleeve to a front piece, or a neckband.
A flatlock is a stitch sewn by an overlocker. You will need to consult your manual to see if your machine is capable of sewing one. Your manual should have a list of settings for you to set your machine to. I have two overlockers - both of them are capable of sewing a flatlock stitch. To sew the stitch on both of my machines, I need to remove the one of the needles and then follow the instructions for threading the machine. On one of my machines, the loopers are threaded as normal, but the needle is threaded a little differently to normal. On the other machine the threading process is normal but the settings are changed, which is why the manual is so important.
The flatlock stitch creates a decorative stitch on the right side, with a ladder stitch on the inside. The seam sits flat on the inside, making it a good option for people who are fussy with the feel of seams. I tend to use Maxi-Lock Stretch in my loopers when sewing a flatlock stitch as it creates a thicker look to the stitch. Naturally just to confuse you, in the below pictures I have used regular poly cotton.
Once you have got your machine settings right, here is how you sew the flatlock stitch, Place fabric pieces wrong sides together and sew. Yes this will feel a little odd.
Pull the fabric pieces gently apart to flatten the stitch.
Picture of inside showing the ladder stitch.
REVERSE OVERLOCK
To reverse overlock, place wrong sides facing and overlock with a short stitch length (around 2). When finished, top stitch the overlocked seam with a stretch stitch, long wide zig zag or triple stitch on the sewing machine.
Overlocked with Maxi-Lock Stretch in upper looper.
Top stitched with stretch stitch on sewing machine.
ROLLED HEM
A rolled hem is used as an alternative to finish a seam. It is also a stitch created by an overlocker. Once again, machine settings will differ from model to model and some machines will do it better than others. For rolled hems, the bottom of the hem gets rolled into a decorative stitch. It can create a lovely finish for swimwear ruffles, and while it’s not my preference, some love the look of it on a dress hem. Rolled hems can be a little tricky if your machine doesn’t feed the fabric through well and the fabric gets a little stretched as it is sewn. I would always recommend practicing this stitch on your machine on scraps of the material you plan to use to check and see if you like the look of it.
Once again, I love the look with Maxi-Lock Stretch in the loopers. Wooly nylon creates a similar effect, however remember that if the item will need to be ironed at some point, wooly nylon will not tolerate the heat from an iron and maxi lock stretch will.
REVERSE COVERSTITCH
Reverse coverstitch is a fantastic decorative stitch that can be used to create a stitch that is purely decorative, or add some stability to a seam that will be under lots of pressure, such as the crotch seam on leggings. As the name implies, reverse coverstitch is done exclusively by a coverstitch machine.
Whilst I don’t often sew with all three needles in with my coverstitch, for a decorative reverse coverstitch, I like it best with the third needle in. And I generally will use Maxi-Lock stretch in the looper.
Reverse coverstitch is simply just the same as coverstitching but you flip the fabric over, so that the right side faces down and the wrong side face up. I use it quite a bit when stitching pockets and on hems when I would like them to have a bit of pop and standout.
The other place to use reverse coverstitch is to sew down a seam to make it sit flat. I use this quite a bit on the crotch seam of leggings and waistbands.
The Boo! Shop sells a great range of Maxi-Lock threads including the Maxi-Lock Swirls range. With a bit of imagination, the swirls range can be used to make some really creative finishes to your garments. In the below pic I have used it on swimwear binding using reverse coverstitch to create a colourful stitch directly on the binding.
DECORATIVE STITCHES
Now what if you don’t have an overlocker that can sew a flatlock stitch, and a coverstitch machine will never be in the budget? Well it’s worth having a good look at your regular machine as many will have some cool decorative stitches that have quite a bit of stretch in them when sewn. My favourite of all of these is the honeycomb stitch, but there are loads you can use depending on your machine. My big tip for this is to use good quality thread and take the time to adjust the tension settings, stitch length, stitch width to make sure the thread doesn’t snap while you are sewing.
By using any of these stitches you can create some unique finishes to your garments.
Hopefully this has inspired you to have a play with your machines. I look forward to seeing all your fancy stitches in the Boo group!
]]>We stock a huge range of In Stock spandex or you can chose from our 'print to order' On Demand print library on either our spandex or sports performance base.
When making garments for yourself, be prepared to go through a bit of trial and error to find the perfect pattern for you. Everyone has different preferences in what they look for in leggings. Once you have found your favourite pattern you will be unstoppable!
Don’t forget to share your creations with us in Pattern Club!
Designer: Jalie
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Textured Leopard Mint (On Demand)
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Solids Black, Stretch Lace Star Black
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Onyx Black (On Demand)
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Black Web (On Demand)
Sewist: Steph from Owl & I
BOO! Fabric: Solids Black, Triangles Sherbet Mint (On Demand)
(splicing added)
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Space Blue (On Demand)
Sewist: Miquita C
BOO! Fabric: Zaire Teal (On Demand range), Solids Black
Sewist: Katy Mawson
BOO! Fabric: Solids Black, Eye of the Tiger Large
Sewist: Annie from Love from Annie
BOO! Fabric: Solids Black, Solid Red Coat, Cheetah Natural (On Demand)
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Sewist: Katy from My China Doll
BOO! Fabric: Graduated Stripes Black White, Solids Black
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Sewist: Karen Matthews from Wild Marmalade Originals
BOO! Fabric: Enchanted Garden Purple, Glitter Galaxy Black, Solids Black
Designer: Jalie
Sewist: Marnie Durbidge from Horris & Deedle
BOO! Fabric: Grunge Sunset, Solids Black
Designer: Patterns for Pirates
Sewist: Marnie Durbidge – Horris & Deedle
BOO! Fabric: Snakeside (On Demand range), Solids Black
(own splicing added)
Sewist: Marnie Durbidge – Horris & Deedle
BOO! Fabric: Bird of Paradise Blue (On Demand range)
Designer: Greenstyle Creations
Sewist: Jenna Bell – Small White Bird
BOO! Fabric: Urban Falls Pink, Desire
Sewist: Marnie Durbidge – Horris & Deedle
BOO! Fabric: Ombre Teal Black
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My daughter has two older brothers and as a result, she’s spent loads of her little life beside rugby fields on cool winter mornings and evenings while her brothers train and play. Years ago I found what we call a "neck warmer” at the shops and it has been the most useful thing to put on her when it is extra cool to keep her neck and chin warm. It’s basically just like a detachable cowl neck and boo velvet is perfect for making them.
Why would you want a detachable cowl neck? Well, I think scarves are a pain especially with younger children. They are always coming off and dragging on the ground in the mud and are more trouble then they are worth, not to mention a choking hazard. Also in a climate like Sydney, while mornings can be chilly, if the sun is out, even in the middle of winter, it can get a bit warm for a cowl neck top. So making it detachable means you can just take it off when it gets hot.
Today I’ll be guiding you through how to make one, and also how to attach it directly to your favourite dress or top depending on what you prefer. Please note I am writing this specifically for Boo! Designs velvet. If you are using a different fabric you may need to work out your own measurements based on the stretch of the fabric. Boo velvet has 100% stretch.
Detachable Cowl
Cut two rectangles, 60cm wide by approximately 30 cm long. One will be on the outside and one will go on the inside. FOr this reason, if you have to cut the velvet in different directions (remember velvet has nap, so you usually have to cut all the one direction) to make the most of your scraps it is not a big deal!! Just cut the outside square with the same nap direction as your garment.
Place rectangles right sides together and sew down long sides.
Turn right side out.
This gets a little trickier here. We need to sew the short sides together in a circle to make the cowl. Pick up the cowl at one side and fold it over the other wide so it turns into more of a square shape than a rectangle. You will have a folded edge on one side, and all four unsewn short edged on the other side. Take the inner two edges and pin them together down the length of the short edge.
When you get to the bottom of the short edges, where the seam for the long rectangular sides you sewed in step 2 meet, keep pinning! You will not be able to pin this all the way around, probably only ⅓ of the way down. Repeat this for the top of the cowl where the other two long rectangular seams meet. You will now have a really awkward looking circle thing, which is ok.
Sew around the pinned edges with the machine of your choice. Sew down as far as you can remembering that you won’t be able to sew all the way around. Remove the pins.
Grab hold of the velvet that is the right side out and pull it through the opening that you couldn’t sew together. Keep pulling until you have your sewn cowl.
Stand back and admire how good your work looks. Repeat process for every scrap of velvet you can find.
The cowl can be worn with all your favourite outfits.
This is a mash of the Portrait Dress and the Tank dress.
It works well also on a lengthened sleeved skater bodice to function as a top...
Or on a traditional sleeved skater dress...
The possibilities are endless.
If you would like to attach the cowl permanently to your garment please follow the steps below:
Attached cowl neck.
Sew up your garment. Do not add a neck binding. In my case, it is a portrait top that I am going to attach a cowl neck to. Measure the neckline of the garment. Mine measures 58cm.
Cut two rectangles 60cm long, by 30 cm wide. Lay them down on top of each other. You now need to turn the rectangles into a trapezoid shape to match the length of your neckline. You actually want it to be a fraction shorter than your neckline to prevent the neckline stretching out when you attach it. You are going to need to take a little off the length at both ends of the bottom of the rectangle, and the taper the short sides up to maintain the 60cm at the top. To work out how much to take off use the following.
*Subtract 3cm from the neckline measurement. So for me this is 58-3, leaving me with 55.
*Subtract the number you ended up with from the above calculation from 60, and then divide by 2. So for me this is 60 - 55 = 5, and then 5/2 = 2.5. So i need to take 2.5 cam off each side and then taper up the short edges to maintain the 60cm at the top edge. I forgot to take a picture of this on my fabric so you are stuck with a dodgy drawing instead.
Separate the two rectangles (well trapezoids really). Fold one in half, right sides together to form more of a square and sew down the short edges. Repeat with the other one.
Place one sewn rectangle inside of the other right sides together. Pin and sewn the top edges together (the 60cm ones)
Turn right side out. You will now have the cowl with the bottom edge not sewn together. We are now going to sew this edge to the garment. Velvet can be slippery when dealing with multiple layers so I suggest overlocking the two loose edges together prior to sewing.
Mark centre front and centre back of your garment. Make sure the garment is right side facing in. Take the cowl and place it inside. Pink to your top or dress by attaching the seam of the cowl to the centre back of the garment. Then pin the centre fronts and if necessary, add another pin somewhere along the side. Sew the cowl onto the garment using a stitch that can handle stretch. I use my overlocker.
Turn right side out and admire how clever you are. Your garment is all ready for wearing. Enjoy!!!
Sewing is meant to be a fun journey, so don’t be afraid to experiment and give things a go. Sometimes it won’t work out, but other times it works out really well! Happy sewing and thanks for reading along.
Appliquéing spandex is a fun and easy way to add pictures, shapes or words to your Boo! outfit. You can applique with regular Boo! spandex, sports performance and metallic spandex, It’s also a great way to use up your scraps!
You will need HeatnBond Lite soft stretch fusible web and a non-stick applique mat (pressing cloth), both can be found here in the Boo! shop.
First you will need to cut out your pattern piece that you want to applique then decide what design you want to add on. Pinterest and google is a really good source for inspiration. You can find lots of printable letters, shapes, numbers and pictures online or you can just draw your template. Use your pattern piece to check right size image and adjust it if needed.
Once you have your template ready you can work out what size fusible web and spandex you will need to cut. Layer the spandex (right side down), fusible web (adhesive side down) then the pressing cloth on top. Make sure the fusible web is smaller than your spandex so you don’t iron it to the ironing board. Press firmly for 10-15 seconds with a hot iron (no steam). Make sure the web has bonded entirely, if it hasn’t just press again.
Next you need to trace your design onto the paper side of the fusible web. This will need to be traced on mirror image or back to front so it comes out the right way.
Cut out the traced design then place it onto your pattern piece. Once you have got everything in the right spot, peel off the backing paper and place your pressing cloth on top then press firmly with a hot iron. You may have to go over it a few times to make sure it has all bonded.
Top stitch the applique down with a straight stitch, reduce the stitch length slightly to allow for the stretch of the spandex (alternatively stitch with a short narrow zig zag stitch straddling the edge of the applique to enclose the raw edges).
If your design needs multiple fabrics/layers, for example a face, add one layer at a time top stitching each layer before you move onto the next one.
The wrong side will look something like this, if you want to hide the stitching just add a lining in.
Continue on and finish your garment as per the pattern instructions.
Get more inspo here.